L-rod technique and tips

[Mike(Mont)]

I hope everyone can keep their posts on this subject.

Top #1: L-rod spacing. If you are not getting response from L-rods try widening the space between the rods. I know it sounds counter-intuitive but actually you get a stronger signal with wider L-rod spacing. I like about 16 inches (40 cm) apart but as wide as comfortable gives the best response.

Tip #2: Try shortening the L-rods. I know some say 17 inches (43 cm) but I like just under 13 inches (33 cm). Longer rods react slower. Not all bad as it might eliminate spurious signals, but you can angle the tips down an inch or more (3 cm +) .

Tip #3: When performing a sweep, the rod will lock on better when angled down a little.

Tip #4: If you keep the rods exactly level you will pick up many more spurious signals. I know it is tempting to be able to get a response, but if you have the rods wider apart you should not need to hold them level.

Tip #5: When doing a sweep, do not let the rod get ahead of your hand, or "pushing" as it is called. If the rod is angled ahead of the sweep it will not be able to swing properly. Keep the rod pointed straight ahead of your arm. Put another way, if you are sweeping to the right, do not let the rod be angled even more to the right. It is okay to have it angled slightly to the left on a right sweep and visa versa.

Tip #6: Sweep very slowly. No more than 3 or 4 inches (10cm) per second.

Tip #7: Sweep multiple times, at least six passes to determine is a target is present.

Tip #8: An ion wrist band might help you. Natural clothes might help you. Leather-soled shoes might help you.

Tip #9: ground yourself often. Some people carry a walking stick/grounding rod. You can find grounding shoes on line. Harmony 783 has been in business for a long time. Note: Don't wear these in an electrical storm!

[Mike(Mont)]

Tip #10: Keep the rods "fluid". I see video of people look like they are scared stiff. You have to be relaxed and loose. When I am walking with two L-rods they swing back and forth with each step. They move together the same amount. This small movement gives them a boost when the signal line is crossed--they already have some momentum and the movement breaks free any friction. This movement is horizontal and not any vertical. Vertical movement will prevent the rods from closing so try to avoid that . Sometimes I will actually shake the rods a bit to get them free of any friction that might by binding them. When I get near the target the rods will start to close then open up. The instant they open up they are already starting to close again. Kind of a momentum effect. On the third time they close completely. Now these are old rods and not all that good of movement. Nicer rods have less friction and don't need much help.

Tip #11: Walk slowly. Some people say you have to walk fast to get a surge when crossing the signal line. If you have nice rods it’s better to go slow, take small steps, but keep it smooth.

[Mike(Mont)]

Tip #12: Back in the 1980's I bought a book titled "How To Build And Use A Molecular Frequency Discriminator". It said the way you can determine target size is to find the signal line and stand on it with the L-rods closed and count how long before the rods open.If they open after a short time the target is small or insignificant. Flour gold 7 seconds, Grains (5) 20 seconds, 14K gold Wedding Ring 14 seconds, 1/4 oz Gold Coin 60 seconds, etc. Not sure I agree with these times, I found much longer times so test yourself.

[Mike(Mont)]

Originally Posted by Mike(Mont)

Tip #12: Back in the 1980's I bought a book titled "How To Build And Use A Molecular Frequency Discriminator". It said the way you can determine target size is to find the signal line and stand on it with the L-rods closed and count how long before the rods open.If they open after a short time the target is small or insignificant. Flour gold 7 seconds, Grains (5) 20 seconds, 14K gold Wedding Ring 14 seconds, 1/4 oz Gold Coin 60 seconds, etc. Not sure I agree with these times, I found much longer times so test yourself.

These times are for gold at 5kHz. Higher frequencies like 8.7kHz is much shorter time. And speaking of gold frequency, gold alloys in this range: natural gold 4900 - 5100Hz, 5200 - 5300Hz man-made of karats 18 - 22, 5400 - 5500Hz for lower karats. Then go back and check at 5000Hz, if it still hits, it is probably mineralization. Remember to turn off locator for five minutes, then turn on and wait 15 minutes before checking.

[Mike(Mont)]

Tip #13: Increase your body conductivity. Before ingesting anything, talk with your doctor. Electrolyte drink or powder to your drinking water. Or add a pinch of sea salt to a glass of filtered water. Dry skin does not conduct well, Use moisturizer or moisturizing shower wash. I have added some olive oil to bath water. Dry, rough feet might need some work.

Tip #14: When using two L-rod while circling the transmitter pick a spot out in front of you a ways and look at it as a distraction. This is very helpful to take your mind off the rods. Don’t be cheating and watching the rods. When they move you will know it.

Tip #15: Healey Double-Crosser sweep technique. When doing a sweep put your thumb on top of the left L-rod so it will not move. Put hands together so they are touching each other and as you sweep in a right direction just keep 100% of your attention on the left, dead rod. Watch where it is pointing. When you are aimed at the target, the right rod will move and start to cross the left rod. If you sweep in the left direction the free rod will open up more when you are aimed at the target. This is my favorite technique. Because your hands are locked together it keeps the rods very stable and it is easy to see when there is a response.This has been very reliable for me. Yes, I miss now and then and sometimes I do not get an exact aim, but it is a real confidence builder especially when things get bewildering out in the field. This is fairly easy but you really have to put 100% of your attention into the left rod. The right rod is right there in your vision so it is easy to cheat and peek at the right rod. Remember you will be cheating yourself and nobody else is going to know or care, but you will be losing if you do.

Tip #16: When standing on the signal line it feels like a smooth wind or very smooth water flowing through you to the target. Actually it is electrical current.

[Mike(Mont)]

Tip #17: Don't work too long a time. Twenty minute per session is plenty. You should be grounding yourself often. Place hands on the ground for thirty seconds--it is not instant because your skin is like a resistor and it takes time to discharge. You can rub the palms of your hands together for sixty seconds. You can turn on water faucet and hold the palms of your hands near the water flow but not touching.

[Mike(Mont)]

Tip #18: Get a good set of L-rods. For many years I used L-rods that were not all that good. Recently I bought a pair I really like. They are very smooth. When I approach a signal line they slowly start to close/converge. I might take four, five, or six steps before they close completely. For me this is very reassuring. I got the Telerods as they are adjustable length. A case is nice to have to keep away dirt. They are not cheap. I got fast shipping. They sell other rods with various accessories. Check their menu. Http://gdi-detectors.com/set-gold-dowsing-l-rods/

[Mike(Mont)]

Originally Posted by Mike(Mont)

Tip #12: Back in the 1980's I bought a book titled "How To Build And Use A Molecular Frequency Discriminator". It said the way you can determine target size is to find the signal line and stand on it with the L-rods closed and count how long before the rods open.If they open after a short time the target is small or insignificant. Flour gold 7 seconds, Grains (5) 20 seconds, 14K gold Wedding Ring 14 seconds, 1/4 oz Gold Coin 60 seconds, etc. Not sure I agree with these times, I found much longer times so test yourself.

It is best to practice counting lock times with a visible target at first. Your rods might be sticky and may require you to wiggle them a bit to break loose the friction. Typically for me the rods rachet open, one step at a time. It is tempting to try and hold them closed so the practice can help you avoid this problem. Once you get this to work you can try it on a hidden target. Dell Winders said nine out of ten targets are insignificant size so this one is quite important to learn.

[waltom0798]

Hello Mike, what could it be when I run with my GDI rods, after a short time my hand burns as if I get a small electric shock, then I have to put on my hands otherwise I can't continue running. It's a strange feeling, whether that's not unhealthy , my conclusion, otherwise everything was good and exciting, good evening and had fun

[Mike(Mont)]

GDI says you can feel a slight shock when on the signal line. I guess it depends on how much moisture on your hands. Any broken skin can give a stronger shock feeling even when not on the signal line. I’ve had to disconnect them one time. If it?s that strong you don’t need the Power Module.

[Mike(Mont)]

Tip #19: Chances are you are not relaxed enough. When one goes out in the field the heart starts racing. People in a hurry just can?t take the time to get relaxed. Bad plan. Here is an easy exercise to help you calm down emotionally and mentally. HTTPS://m.YouTube.com/watch?v=0bBOgmc45Cs

[Mike(Mont)]

Tip #20: I already touched o this but warm temperatures are much faster for the signal line to develop. Yesterday it was 74 F (23 C) and it was perfect conditions. The signal line developed in about thirty seconds across my yard. This morning 43 F (6 C) it took a longer time about five minutes or more. So if you have to work in cold weather plan on waiting. Longer distances require more time. Fifteen minutes is not abnormal. And it's always good to put out a visible test target especially out in the field. Conditions are probably going to be different than in your practice area.

[Mike(Mont)]

Tip #21: If you stand on the signal line to count the time, you will need to demagnetize the rods by holding them down at your sides while standing away from the line afterwards. About thirty seconds. It?s not a problem if you are not immediately doing another search. Otherwise the rods will respond to false targets.

[rxlock2]

Originally Posted by Mike(Mont)

Tip #21: If you stand on the signal line to count the time, you will need to demagnetize the rods by holding them down at your sides while standing away from the line afterwards. About thirty seconds. It?s not a problem if you are not immediately doing another search. Otherwise the rods will respond to false targets.

For all these techniques there is a category on the forum
<<Dowsing & Passive Locators>>.
It is good that they are published there.

[Mike(Mont)]

You need to go back and read the heading for this page. Here it is: “Discussions on LRL's of the electronic variety which also utilize L-rods or other swiveling methods”. You might be confusing this page with the All-Electronic LRL's that don't use L-rods. If you are referring about the Vagus nerve video, well, relaxation is essential to L-rod useage.

Maybe you couln't understand the language. The vagus nerve runs right along the vocal cords and the humming vibrates the nerve to help relax the person. My guess this is a big problem people do not overcome. So I am trying to help.

[waltom0798]

Hello Mike, I didn't understand what it means to demagnetize, it's not translated correctly, it says hold on to the side and then let go for 30 seconds, you can easily explain this in writing, I hope that didn't happen, thank you all the best

[Mike(Mont)]

Hold L-rods down at your sides for thirty seconds.

[Mike(Mont)]

Demagnetize the rods after standing on the signal line while counting. You do not need to demagnetize if you are not doing another search directly after standing on the line. SO if you wait a few minutes before the next search you don't need to demagnetize.

[Mike(Mont)]

Tip #22: The signal line always extends past the target depending on signal strength by as much as 200 feet (60 M). But usually several feet. If you have a weight cancelling device attached to the rods set it just before the target is eliminated and you will be able to get a more accurate pinpoint. Or you can connect a 100K - 250K potentiometer between the rods. For a gold ring I set mine to about 40K and still give a good signal. Don't go any lower than a 100K potentiometer or you might get a weaker signal during weak conditions. 250K is better. At full resistance you get the strongest signal. Practice with a visible test target before attempting this in the field.

When you have it adjusted close to eliminating the target the rods will only close partially. This way you know you have it adjusted correctly. Only do this after you have located the signal line. It depends on locating conditions as to how you set this. If conditions are weak you might not even need it at all. Once you find the line you will need to make a few passes while adjusting so the rods partially close. Conditions are different every day so you need to adjust each time you go out. If you have too many targets you can adjust it to eliminate some of the small stuff before you find the good line.

[Mike(Mont)]

It's best to set up the transmitter at a different spot and where the two lines cross will likely not be at the end of the first line. If you set up at a third spot you will probably end up with a triangle area. Even then the target might not be in the middle, so check the surrounding area. Remember the more time you spend checking the signal you will save energy ans frustration digging a false target. Only persue the good solid signal lines. Important!

[Mike(Mont)]

Originally Posted by Mike(Mont)

Tip #22: The signal line always extends past the target depending on signal strength by as much as 200 feet (60 M). But usually several feet. If you have a weight cancelling device attached to the rods set it just before the target is eliminated and you will be able to get a more accurate pinpoint. Or you can connect a 100K - 250K potentiometer between the rods. For a gold ring I set mine to about 40K and still give a good signal. Don't go any lower than a 100K potentiometer or you might get a weaker signal during weak conditions. 250K is better. At full resistance you get the strongest signal. Practice with a visible test target before attempting this in the field.

When you have it adjusted close to eliminating the target the rods will only close partially. This way you know you have it adjusted correctly. Only do this after you have located the signal line. It depends on locating conditions as to how you set this. If conditions are weak you might not even need it at all. Once you find the line you will need to make a few passes while adjusting so the rods partially close. Conditions are different every day so you need to adjust each time you go out. If you have too many targets you can adjust it to eliminate some of the small stuff before you find the good line.

Another important note: The amount of weight filtering you get from the potentiometer or power module depends on how much you angle the L-rods down at the tips. I know it is tempting to hold the rods level to get a response,but you need to angle them down or you will be detecting insignificant targets and mineralization. So angle the rods down 10 - 15 degrees for best results. It will likely take much practice to achieve this. Good, smooth-working rods can help along with a light, relaxed grip.

Also note that when the rods are angled down it is easy to prevent them from moving so you have to watch out for this. Once the rods start to move you want to relax your arms and allow the rods to move, but don’t force them.

Even with weight filtering the signal can still extend 10 - 15 feet (3 - 5 m) past the target.

[Mike(Mont)]

Tip #23: This is part of #22 but... When doing a weight chek/measurement keep within 50 feet (15 m) of the suspected target. Otherwise the approximate weight will appear to weigh more. Also the approximate weight will depend on the signal strength at that time. Solar magnetic interference will make the target appear to weigh less. Use a test target to get a relative figure. Or another technique is to place a test target near the suspected target about 30 feet (10 m) away and stand in the middle and the rods will pull to the larger target.

Always use a test target to help judge how much interference/signal strength. Important!

[Mike(Mont)]

I found some older info from Dell Winders says the signal line extends between a few inches and 50 feet (15 m) past the target. Later info said 10 - 15 feet (3 - 5 m) and 200 feet (60 m). Quite a difference there and I think it depends on how much power the locator has and locating conditions. I walk along the signal line with one rod and look for a response at the target. But it is best to set up the tansmitter at another spot and find where the two lines intersect. You should be close to the target at this point.

[Mike(Mont)]

Tip #24: I already mentioned this, but it’s very important to keep the rod tips angled down. You will have to practice this to get the rods to respond. Start out the first time with the rods closer to level and when you see the rods start to move consciously relax your arms and tilt your hands inwards a bit. Practice this until you do it without thinking. This is one of the harder things to get right. so spend a lot of time with it. When you get a good day and the rods are crossing completely now is the time to start lowering the rod tips as much as you can to get to the inch or two down (3 - 5 cm). If you don't learn this you might never have any success. You need a test target set out so you can feel a good, solid response for that signal tength. You can compare targets with your test target. If you dig an empty hole it is a good bet that you are holding the tips down enough to get the nulling.My experience is that a square wave requires more nulling than sine or triangle wave.

[Mike(Mont)]

Tip #25: Signal strength has little or no bearing on target size. You turn off the transmitter and stand on the line with rods crossed. A big target will hold the signal for a longer time. As already mentioned you can stand on the line with transmitter on and count how long the rods stay crossed.