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#178
04-21-2014, 09:33 PM
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built something real working!
Stop jamming the real important threads here with a flood of "good-looking" electronic-work postings !!!
Show us real provable results with the stuff you wanna built here or stop this nonsense. This is here not grandmother Milly's astrology prediction forum! 
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#179
04-22-2014, 05:23 AM
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HELLO FUNDFINDER
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funfinder hello, I do not understand where is my mistake, I'm an Italian user registered on this forum, and I'm building a PDK for which there are no updates and marked with various errors, jocelito very nice helped me, and what the mistake? in fact you should be proud to have people like jocelito but very very helpful in helping others like me less capable ..... I do not think that is a racist GURU........I'm Italian
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#181
05-01-2014, 11:25 AM
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forum? what?
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it is true that I do not understand much about electronics, but it is also true that here is not any person who helps you in building a KDP, and do not tell me to buy the infamous book inside metal detector, if this is a forum and someone has a project, why does it? in my country and that Italy and I'm proud if one e-mail him something to make sure that another user can build it, but here it seems to me a thing of science fiction, and all incomplete projects with errors but ..... can never be a wild thing? only FRANCOITALY submit a draft and it's all complete, I built 2 PDK and no one does a full one please Perchee wrong and beautiful that no one helps, please change job and keep all the treasures for you Annulla modifiche Il tuo contributo sarÃ* utilizzato per migliorare la qualitÃ* della traduzione e può essere mostrato agli utenti in modo anonimo Contribuisci Chiudi Grazie per l'invio. Please help Google Translate improve quality for your language here. Google Traduttore per il Business:Translator ToolkitTraduttore di siti webStrumento a supporto dell'export Trascina e rilascia il file o il link qui per tradurre il documento o la pagina web. Trascina e rilascia il link qui per tradurre la pagina web. Il tipo di file che rilasci non è supportato. Prova altri tipi di file. Il tipo di link che rilasci non è supportato. Prova altri tipi di link.
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#182
09-14-2014, 11:43 AM
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Any updates or news on this project? This looks really cool and I want to build this device but it seems like there were errors in the last 1 pcb design from ma330. Did anyone succeed to build a working device?
Thanks very much http://www.longrangelocators.com/for...3&postcount=92
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#183
09-17-2014, 04:29 PM
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No conclusions and videos from the device operation. Results of indoor and outdoor newly buried metal and old metal is different.
__________________
No matter how the speed of light is high , Darkness is one step ahead .
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#184
09-17-2014, 04:32 PM
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__________________
No matter how the speed of light is high , Darkness is one step ahead .
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#186
09-17-2014, 07:08 PM
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Thank you very much reza vir! Link is working fine - you have to click on the "arrow" symbol to download the file.
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#187
09-17-2014, 08:05 PM
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__________________
Global capital is ruining your life? You have right to self-defence!
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#188
09-17-2014, 08:34 PM
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Your link does not work. I will put the complete project below in a single post for anyone who wants it. Circuit board by ma330: Download this PCB file: http://www.longrangelocators.com/for...8&d=1326467353 http://www.longrangelocators.com/for...9&d=1326467413 http://www.longrangelocators.com/for...0&d=1326467413 Nulling procedure and tuning instructions: Final checks before making PD calibration: To begin, let us assume you have completed the construction of the PD version of this locator. Before you put in the battery, you should make these checks: First look at the circuit board or the breadboard closely to make sure you have good solder joints. Also check to see there is no place where the solder is spread out where it is touching a different conductor that it should not touch. Then clean all of the solder joints and the circuit board with alcohol and wipe it dry with a soft cloth to remove any flux residue. Methylated spirits is the best solvent to use. Look at the wires that connect the coils to the circuit. These wires should not be long wires tangled through the box. They should be kept short so they do not pick up electronic noise from the rest of the circuits. Then adjust the sensitivity control to the minimum (0% sensitivity), and put the null control to the center of the adjustment range. (50% at half of the null). Finally, put in the battery and turn on the power. Be ready to turn it off if you smell smoke or you see any other electrical problem like the meter stuck to full reading. If you have no short circuits and everything is connected as it should be, you may hear some sound from the speaker, or maybe not. Speaker sound is ok, and no sound is ok too. At this point you will need to adjust the position of the RX coil for a null on the search coil. First, to explain about the null: The RX coil is designed to detect anomalies in the VLF wave transmissions that it receives. But it is located nearly touching the transmitter coil that is broadcasting strong VLF waves which will interfere with the detection that the RX coil is trying to find. This is the reason why the RX coil is positioned to cross over the center of the transmitter coil. At this position there is very little of the TX coil power interfering with the RX coil detection. But we must adjust the position of the RX coil exactly to find the minimum amount of interference from the TX coil. When we find the position for the minimum interference, we call this the null position for the RX coil. In this circuit design, we also see there is a null adjustment knob which the designer included to make very fine null adjustments electronically, after we find the best null location to put the RX coil. The idea for nulling is to first put the RX coil in the best null position that we can find while the electronic adjustment is set to the center of its adjustment range. Then, you will have a perfect null location with no interference from the TX coil. This means that the RX coil will only detect anomalies that it finds in the air, not interference from the transmitter. You will still be able to make fine adjustments when there are physical conditions that cause the null to drift so it is no longer perfectly nulled. The control knob can make these fine adjustments. You may need to use the null control knob to make adjustments when you are detecting near mineralized soil, or if some metal part inside your box is moved, or other similar conditions. So you want to find the best null position for the coil while the null control knob is in the center position. Now, a method to do this: How to make the null adjustment: First move your PD locator away from all metal things. Make sure you do not have rings, watches or other jewelry on your hands. Leave the null adjustment potentiometer at the center position, and turn the sensitivity until you find a meter reading at the middle of the meter scale (50% meter). Then move the RX coil until you find the lowest meter reading. You can move this coil after you loosen the screws at the slotted hole. Then slide the coil up or down to find where the meter reaches the lowest reading. If the meter reading reduces down to 0, then turn up the control knob for more sensitivity until you see a meter reading on the scale. Then make more adjustments to the position of the RX coil until you find the lowest reading. You should find a position for the RX coil where it shows the lowest meter reading, and the meter will read higher if you move the RX coil up or down. When you find this position for the RX coil, then you have found your best null position. It may be necessary to turn the null control knob a little to find this location. You can turn the knob anywhere between the 40% null to 60% null if it will help to find the lowest meter reading. When you cannot find a lower meter reading from moving the RX coil and from turning the null control knob between 40% nd 60%, this means you have found the best null position for the RX null. You can tighten the RX coil in this position so it will not move from the null position that you found. Note: This lowest meter reading position should be found when the electronic null control is in the center position between 40% and 60%. If your null control knob must be set less than 40% or more than 60% to find the lowest meter reading, then you will need to move the coil farther. Maybe you will need to make the slots longer so the RX coil will move farther. Final check to see if you are done with the null adjustment: When you are finished with the null adjustment, you should have found a location for the RX coil that gives the lowest meter reading when the Null control knob is in the center. Any movement of the RX coil will cause the meter reading to increase. Also, any adjustment of the null control knob will cause the meter reading to increase. Look to see the RX coil is not pushed to the end of the slotted hole -- it can be moved farther in either direction, but if you move it up or down, the meter reading will increase. Look to see the null control knob is set near the center (between 40% and 60%). When you turn it to the right or left, the meter reading will increase. If all of these checks are correct, then you are finished with the null adjustment. When you complete this null adjustment, you are ready to make the pinpoint test. Extra tips for a good null: These tips should be used in the early construction stages of the project... Keep all the metal parts of your PD separated from the coils as far as possible. The meter and battery and controls should be at the back, away from the coils. The only parts that should be close to the coils is the transmitter and receiver part of the circuits. If you use a 2-board design, you can put PCB-1 inside the coil housing or inside the PD box very close to the coils. You want to keep the wires that connect from the coils to this board as short as possible so they do not pick up or send out unwanted electronic noise. If you are building with a single board design, then keep the parts of the circuit for the TX and RX coil at one end of the board, near the coils. And keep the power circuits for the speaker and meter at the other end of the board away from the coils. Final pinpointing check: The final check for the PD after you have a good null is the pinpointing check. Use the diagram below to check that you have the correct meter readings when you pass the search coil over a USA dime at different parts of the coil. Where did this project come from? This circuit was designed by some top electronic engineers in the USA many years ago, but it was forgotten. What most people do not understand is this locator does not use integrated circuits which filter out the tiny signals that modern designs cannot find. But LRL experimenters know better. They know how important these tiny signals are for locating treasure. They know these signals are lost when they use modern components. This is why so many LRL experimenters look for this circuit. I have seen many different versions of this circuit with different transistors and components ... and they do not work for most people who build it. Maybe this is because they do not use the correct methods for building their PD. Or... maybe it is because they do not have the correct schematic version. I hear rumors that the pistol has a difficult time to work when the parts are changed for modern parts. But I have the original circuit design using the original transistors and all the original components. Some years ago I read that one of the Geotech engineers has this original locator design made into the pistol project. He did not build a copy using modern parts. He has the original locator from 30 years ago which he modified into a PD without changing any components. I remember when the Geotech engineer re-arranged this same exact circuit into a pistol, he was amazed at the signals he was detecting that he was never able to find with his other locators. I remember these reported these detection distances in the air: 45 cm = coke can 14 cm = aluminium sheet 14cm x 9cm 1.2 m = other large metal objects I remember he said he could point this locator in many directions and hear signals arrive which his other detectors did not detect. But he did not report if he ever followed to find the exact source of the signals. In fact, shortly after he showed his PD, he stopped making reports about it. This is why I don't know the true distance that this locator can work. I also remember he said there is no Faraday shield of any kind used on the coils in this locator. I think this is important, because a Faraday shield can block much of the electric field component of incoming signals. He tried every way he could think of to understand exactly what these signals were. But in the end he was satisfied to know that he was detecting mysterious signals that he could not detect with his other metal locating equipment. He never will tell how much treasure he found. I am thinking he found many ancient hammered coins, but I do not think he will tell if he found some Celtic gold treasures. I don't know for certain because he did not say what he recovered or not recovered. I think back about how he said he received some very strange signals that he never received from any of his metal detectors... and then he became silent. We never again heard about any more treasures he found... I can only guess he spends his spare time treasure hunting using his original version PD locator. Maybe he wants to keep the original design as a secret so only he can use it. But I tell all details...!!  You can look above at the complete schematic. Nothing is missing. It shows all the original parts that you will see if you open the locator and look on the circuit boards. There are very few of these original locators left in the world. People buy them as soon as they are listed for sale, so you will not be able to find one. But you can build a copy from the original parts, because I show everything above. Note: one transistor is no longer manufactured, so I put the substitute transistors that you can use to get the same results. Also, you will need to find a mica capacitor. You can find these on ebay. Good luck with your PD that detects metals  J_P
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#189
09-17-2014, 09:13 PM
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ooops sorry.
First click on the button with the "chain" after that it will transform to an "arrow". If you click now that arrow you can download the file. Im not persian either but I've just hover with the mouse over the buttons and you see in the status bar of your browser what the download link is.
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#190
09-17-2014, 09:49 PM
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Thanks J_P to collect data of your PD again.
This is most detailed and explained PD LRL project posted on LRL forum ever.
__________________
Global capital is ruining your life? You have right to self-defence!
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#191
09-17-2014, 10:02 PM
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Did someone noticed the error on the PCB? Does it have to be cut? Did someone build the device using that PCB? Thanks
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#192
09-17-2014, 11:59 PM
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No.... Nobody noticed any error in the PC board...! ma330 did a perfect job to produce this circuit board. Thank you ma330 ...!You can send a pm to ma330 to confirm that this PCB is perfect. The decision to cut the board is an optional choice which is available to anyone who builds this PD. Read the posts above to learn the details why anyone might want to cut the PCB into two parts. The circuit board can be cut or not cut, and the results will be the same, as long as the builder observes the precautions that were shown in the posts above... Your best idea to complete this project is to follow the instructions that are shown in this post: --> http://www.longrangelocators.com/for...&postcount=188 Do not use any other information which you do not find in this post.... unless you don't care whether it works or not. Best wishes, J_P P.S. Note to other people who want to post projects in this forum: Please include complete schematic, and complete list of parts, and complete tuning instructions similar to what you see above. This method will make it much easier for forum readers to build your project.
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#194
09-19-2014, 06:24 AM
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I looked at the PCB design again and you are correct! Thank you for finding this error.  I made changes to the BMP artwork to correct the error, and I smoothed out some of the rough edges at the same time. See attached correction for the error found on the PCB. Note: There may be more errors that I did not catch. If you find them, let us know. I will update the complete project post after everyone has a chance to check if there are more errors to be corrected. Happy treasure hunting J_P
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Linear Mode
