help me - help me

[hamidmatris]

Originally Posted by J_Player

I don't know what this is.
It is not part of the project which I show above.
My circuit has no parts which look like the photos you show.
You should send an email to the person who made your photos and ask what is the part that you have circled.
Maybe the person who made the photographs knows what that part is.


Best Wishes,
J_P

hi J_player.
Please tell me
What is the depth at which it occurs?
Have you made something with your own eyes have seen
Thank you

[J_Player]

Originally Posted by hamidmatris

hi J_player.
Please tell me
What is the depth at which it occurs?
Have you made something with your own eyes have seen
Thank you

Hi hamidmatris,
For the project that I show above, I have seen no testing for depth with my own eyes.
Here is the depth that was reported by other people who used my circuit in a pistol design:
This is a test report for only the project that I posted.
It is not the depth that was reported for the modifications to the circuit I posted:
45 cm = coke can
14 cm = aluminium sheet 14cm x 9cm
1.2 m = other large metal objects

I also heard reports from other people who used this same design, and found larger distances and smaller distances.
But I did not see any test for this project with my own eyes.

For the other modification pistol, I have never seen any test with my own eyes.
I do not know what depth the modification pistol can detect.


Best Wishes,
J_P

[hamidmatris]

Originally Posted by vali

Hello hamidmatris. Has a ferrite on the radio waves are used to receive signals. Andreas will help if you ask. Thanks......

hi vali.
I'll put a few photos for you that they've found one other forum.
If you know the reason for making this form to tell me.
So it works best?




Thank you

[hamidmatris]

Originally Posted by J_Player

Hi hamidmatris,
For the project that I show above, I have seen no testing for depth with my own eyes.
Here is the depth that was reported by other people who used my circuit in a pistol design:
This is a test report for only the project that I posted.
It is not the depth that was reported for the modifications to the circuit I posted:
45 cm = coke can
14 cm = aluminium sheet 14cm x 9cm
1.2 m = other large metal objects

I also heard reports from other people who used this same design, and found larger distances and smaller distances.
But I did not see any test for this project with my own eyes.

For the other modification pistol, I have never seen any test with my own eyes.
I do not know what depth the modification pistol can detect.


Best Wishes,
J_P

hi J_player
Thank you

[ikumi5]

i already build this pd less the housing co'z i'm trying to calibrate it with maximum performance

my PCB.

regards!!!
ikumi5

[J_Player]

Originally Posted by ikumi5

i already build this pd less the housing co'z i'm trying to calibrate it with maximum performance

my PCB.

regards!!!
ikumi5

Hi ikumi5,

This is a very good construction for this project.
If you are ready to make calibration for maximum performance, then you must first complete construction of the box that will hold the electronics and attach it to the wooden disk for the coils.

Here are the tips:
1. When you make final calibrations for best performance, the metals from the circuit and the batteries will make an influence on the coils and the null point.
The true null can only be found after the electronic parts are put into their final position.
If you make calibration before putting the electronics in their final position in the box, then the calibration will change after you move the circuit board and batteries to a new position in the box.

2. When you put the electronics in the box, you must keep the batteries far away from the coils.
Also any meters and switches should be kept far away from the coils.
These coils will act as a metal detector, so any metal near the coils will serve to weaken the detection ability.
See my diagram here that shows the batteries and meters far away from the coils:


After the electronic parts are put into the box in their final position, then it is time to make final calibrations for the coils.
It is best to make the small Rx coil adjustable so you can change the null point later.
If you glue it in a null point, then you will not be able to move the Rx coil again if you need to move it to make corrections for a good null. You will need to move the Rx coil again if you move the electronic parts inside the box to a new position. Here is a way you can make adjustment slots for future adjusting of null below:


After the electronics are in their final position, you can use this calibration method to find the best null position, and to test for detection range: http://www.longrangelocators.com/for...8&postcount=59showpost

Good luck with your locator!
Best Wishes,
J_P

[nelson]

Nice job ikumi5

Can you share us Livewire files?

Keep us inform about your success

Regards

Nelson

Originally Posted by ikumi5

i already build this pd less the housing co'z i'm trying to calibrate it with maximum performance

my PCB.

regards!!!
ikumi5

[J_Player]

Originally Posted by ikumi5

i already build this pd less the housing co'z i'm trying to calibrate it with maximum performance

my PCB.

regards!!!
ikumi5

Hi ikumi5,
My link for making calibration was wrong, so I show the calibration method here:

1. First, we look at your circuit boards and coils, and we need to make a test to see if the circuit is working before putting the electronics and batteries in the final position of the pistol.
You can move the small RX coil to find a null location on the TX coil, then use tape to hold the coils in the null position.
You must connect the meter to find the null location.
You will need to watch this meter to determine when the best null is found.
Here is the method to find the null location:
A. Set the null control potentiometer to the center position (50%).
B. Turn the sensitivity control down until the meter is at 1/2 position (50%).
C. Then move the position of the RX coil until you find the lowest possible signal on the meter.
D. Then increase the sensitivity to find the highest signal on the meter without moving the coils.
E. Now, move the Rx coil to find the lowest meter reading.
F. At this point, you found the approximate null position for the coils. You can repeat steps C, D and E to find a more precise null position.
You want to move the coil position so it will show the smallest signal when the sensitivity is set to a high sensitivity setting.
When you find the approximate null location for the Rx coil. then move a metal object near the coils to see if you find a signal.
The meter reading should increase, and the speaker should make a sound when you move a coin or a key near the coils.

2. What to do if you cannot find a null?
If you are not seeing any signal when you move metal objects near the coils, then you should check your circuit for errors.
Check for errors as follows:
A. Look at the circuit board or the breadboard closely to make sure you have good solder joints.
Also check to see there is no place where the solder is spread out where it is touching a different conductor that it should not touch.
B. Clean all of the solder joints and the circuit board with alcohol and wipe it dry with a soft cloth to remove any flux residue. Methylated spirits is the best solvent to use.
C. Look at the wires that connect the coils to the circuit.
These wires should not be long wires tangled through the box.
They should be kept short so they do not pick up electronic noise from the rest of the circuits.
D. If these steps do not solve the problem, then you must check the circuit for components installed wrong, wrong wire connections, or maybe even bad parts.
You can check all the resistors and capacitors with a meter to make sure they are close to the correct values shown.
Also, there may be some cheap Chinese counterfeit components which are causing a problem in the circuit.
The only parts which come to mind are the zener diode, and maybe the transistors.
Be sure to check the base, collector and emitters are connected to the correct locations in the circuit.
Some manufacturers change the pin assignments so they are different from other manufacturers.

3. Install the electronics and batteries into the box for the pistol.
If you find the coils are making a signal when you move metal things near them, then you are ready to put the electronics parts in the pistol for their final position.
You should be careful to keep the large metal parts located away from the coils.
Parts to keep away are the batteries, meters and switches.
The circuit board for the audio amplifier should be kept away, while the circuit board for the RF transmitter and receiver should be close to the coils, to allow short wires connecting to the coils.
The objective is to keep heavy metal things away from the coils, because they will cause a signal that you do not want.
Also you want to keep the audio amplifier away because it could develop problems if it picks up inductive noise from the TX coil, and it can also cause problems by leaking audio signals into the Rx coil.
The circuit boards were designed with these problems in mind, so you already have the correct configuration on the circuit boards.
When you make the final construction of the pistol, then you must build a method to make later adjustments to the position of the Rx coil null.
You will need to do this because the Rx null will probably need to be moved after you make the pistol enclosure.

4. Final calibration for maximum detection
After you have all the parts installed on your pistol, then you can make the final calibration for maximum detection.
You will have a good approximate null from your earlier null testing.
But since the metal parts from the circuit boards and batteries were moved, you will need to make another calibration for null.
This is done outside of the laboratory, away from all metal things and electronic noises.
You will be following the same procedures that you used in section 1 above.
You should repeat this nulling procedure 2 or 3 times until you cannot find any better null position for the RX coil.
Then lock the RX coil into position so it will not move. This is your best null.

Here is the method to find the null location repeated again:
A. Set the null control potentiometer to the center position (50%).
B. Turn the sensitivity control down until the meter is at 1/2 position (50%).
C. Then move the position of the RX coil until you find the lowest possible signal on the meter.
D. Then increase the sensitivity to find the highest signal on the meter without moving the coils.
E. Now, move the Rx coil to find the lowest meter reading.
F. At this point, you found the approximate null position for the coils. You can repeat steps C, D and E to find a more precise null position.
You want to move the coil position so it will show the smallest signal when the sensitivity is set to a high sensitivity setting.
When you find the approximate null location for the Rx coil. then move a metal object near the coils to see if you find a signal.
The meter reading should increase, and the speaker should make a sound when you move a coin or a key near the coils.

5. Later modifications.
You may wish to make modifications to your locator for longer range detection.
Some people have added coils, ferrites, circuits and even metal samples to improve the performance.
But any of these things added to the pistol can change the null balance to the Rx coil.
You should re-calibrate the Rx coil any time you add new parts to the pistol or move parts that are close to the coils (see section 4 above to re-calibrate).

Remember, you also have a null control knob which was adjusted to the center position.
This control knob can adjust minor shifts in the null so you don't have to move the coil.
But if the null control is near the end of the travel (near 0% or near 100%), then you will need to move the Rx coil so the null control will be at the center position (50%).

Best Wishes,
J_P

[ikumi5]

thanks j_player
update to my experiment pd
1. it cannot detect plier,screw driver, small wire even you put in the coil
2. it can detect ring, large tin can, small wire in shorted form (O), car body (large metal object) but in reverse detecting procedure (you have to hear the beeping sound when you track the car body the beeping gone)
any idea?

regards!!!
happy new year to all

ikumi5

[J_Player]

Originally Posted by ikumi5

thanks j_player
update to my experiment pd
1. it cannot detect plier,screw driver, small wire even you put in the coil
2. it can detect ring, large tin can, small wire in shorted form (O), car body (large metal object) but in reverse detecting procedure (you have to hear the beeping sound when you track the car body the beeping gone)
any idea?

regards!!!
happy new year to all

ikumi5

It sounds like you did not make a good null to the coils.
See the instructions in section 1 above to set the null position. http://www.longrangelocators.com/for...&postcount=158
If you have the best null, then maybe you have errors in the circuit.
See the instructions in section 2 above for checking for errors.
After you complete the nulling procedure and check for bad components and errors, if you still have bad detection, then you can make some tests in the circuit to see where the problem is.
Look at the diagram below where there are red numbers.
You can turn on the locator and set it so it is ready to detect metal.
Then measure the voltages at each of the red numbers against the ground wire.
Post your voltage readings for all the red numbers, and I can help to find where the problem is.


Best Wishes,
J_P

[ikumi5]

here's my voltage reading using piezo speaker

[mustefa ubram]

hi dear ikumi5
It is evident from the remote earth metals?
Please explain about the functionality and quality?

[J_Player]

Originally Posted by ikumi5

here's my voltage reading using piezo speaker

Hi Ikumi5,
Your voltage readings look fairly good except audio amplifier - in the area of the speaker and the meter.
From what you posted, here is what I am seeing:

1. You have the wrong speaker. This circuit is not designed to use a piezo speaker.
It needs a speaker with a coil and a magnet.
The piezo speaker is causing problems in the amplifier.
The resistance across the speaker coil wires should be about 100 ohms.
I you don't have a 100 ohm speaker, then you can use stereo headphones that are designed for portable music players and computers.
But you will need to add a resistor in series with the headphones for this circuit.

Each of the two speakers in the earphones should measure somewhere around 30 ohms, or 60 ohms if you are measuring across the two hot connectors at the end of the plug to measure them both in series.
You should connect a resistor in series with the headphone connector to keep the resistance more than 100 ohms.
You can adjust this resistor to change the loudness of the speaker or earphone as long as you have at least 70 ohms, and less than 250 ohms when you measure the two wires that you will connect to the circuit board.
A good choice for resistor is 150 ohms.
See the diagram below for connecting headphones.
If you only want one speaker on the headphones then connect to the right or left channel terminal and to the ground terminal of the headphone jack.
Note: If you connect headphones, they may be very loud, so do not put them on your ears unless you know it is safe.

If you have a 100 ohm speaker, then you can connect directly with no resistor.
If your speaker is more than 250 ohms, you are best not to use it.
If it is less than 70 ohms, then add a series resistor until you have at least 70 ohms but not more than 250 ohms.

2. Some of the other voltages make me think you do not have a good null.
From what I see the null is only a rough null that was not tuned by the meter.
You must have a very good null in order to find good detection.
I don't know why the null is not good, but I am thinking there is a problem with the meter which tells you when you have a good null condition.
Or it could be caused by problems from the piezo speaker.

At this point, I need to know about your control pots and your meter:
3. When you took the voltage readings for the circuit, where was the null pot (R31) adjusted to?
Was it center of the pot or near the end of the movement for the knob?

4. When you took the voltage readings for the circuit, where was the sensitivity pot (R30) adjusted to?
Was it center of the pot or near the end of the movement for the knob?

5. Meter check:
A. When you get maximum detection from a large metal object, how high does the meter move?
B. How much current is passing through the meter when the needle is moved to maximum on the scale?
C. How much voltage do you read across the meter when the needle is moved to maximum on the scale?
D. How much current is passing through the meter when the needle is moved to 50% on the scale?
E. How much voltage do you read across the meter when the needle is moved to 50% on the scale?

Something you should check: Check diodes D3 and D4 to make sure they are functioning correctly.


Best Wishes,
J_P

[roccocoin]

Originally Posted by ikumi5

i already build this pd less the housing co'z i'm trying to calibrate it with maximum performance

my PCB.

regards!!!
ikumi5

hello, I would try to build this pdk, I wanted to know if the bases are positive or should I copy them to the contrary on the auburn whiskers? then what should I do since there are more than one type of sideburns? tanks







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[roccocoin]

Originally Posted by J_Player

Hi Ikumi5,
Your voltage readings look fairly good except audio amplifier - in the area of the speaker and the meter.
From what you posted, here is what I am seeing:

1. You have the wrong speaker. This circuit is not designed to use a piezo speaker.
It needs a speaker with a coil and a magnet.
The piezo speaker is causing problems in the amplifier.
The resistance across the speaker coil wires should be about 100 ohms.
I you don't have a 100 ohm speaker, then you can use stereo headphones that are designed for portable music players and computers.
But you will need to add a resistor in series with the headphones for this circuit.

Each of the two speakers in the earphones should measure somewhere around 30 ohms, or 60 ohms if you are measuring across the two hot connectors at the end of the plug to measure them both in series.
You should connect a resistor in series with the headphone connector to keep the resistance more than 100 ohms.
You can adjust this resistor to change the loudness of the speaker or earphone as long as you have at least 70 ohms, and less than 250 ohms when you measure the two wires that you will connect to the circuit board.
A good choice for resistor is 150 ohms.
See the diagram below for connecting headphones.
If you only want one speaker on the headphones then connect to the right or left channel terminal and to the ground terminal of the headphone jack.
Note: If you connect headphones, they may be very loud, so do not put them on your ears unless you know it is safe.

If you have a 100 ohm speaker, then you can connect directly with no resistor.
If your speaker is more than 250 ohms, you are best not to use it.
If it is less than 70 ohms, then add a series resistor until you have at least 70 ohms but not more than 250 ohms.

2. Some of the other voltages make me think you do not have a good null.
From what I see the null is only a rough null that was not tuned by the meter.
You must have a very good null in order to find good detection.
I don't know why the null is not good, but I am thinking there is a problem with the meter which tells you when you have a good null condition.
Or it could be caused by problems from the piezo speaker.

At this point, I need to know about your control pots and your meter:
3. When you took the voltage readings for the circuit, where was the null pot (R31) adjusted to?
Was it center of the pot or near the end of the movement for the knob?

4. When you took the voltage readings for the circuit, where was the sensitivity pot (R30) adjusted to?
Was it center of the pot or near the end of the movement for the knob?

5. Meter check:
A. When you get maximum detection from a large metal object, how high does the meter move?
B. How much current is passing through the meter when the needle is moved to maximum on the scale?
C. How much voltage do you read across the meter when the needle is moved to maximum on the scale?
D. How much current is passing through the meter when the needle is moved to 50% on the scale?
E. How much voltage do you read across the meter when the needle is moved to 50% on the scale?

Something you should check: Check diodes D3 and D4 to make sure they are functioning correctly.


Best Wishes,
J_P

J.PLAYER hello, please tell me which board electronics can I do? and that the right one? there are many but I see that they are all negative to positive and I have to print them otherwise I am and I make mistakes, you do not and I can post pictures only right to copy it? tanks







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[roccocoin]

Originally Posted by ma330

yes wm6 .I'll put you and other freinds Both the Plan
Circuit design in the smallest possible size(4*7cm).Check the circuit for error.
If you find an error please inform the problem
I put the original file attachments.
enjoy
Good luck

hello, I'm building this pdk, but I can not open the RAR file TX, I was interested to know how the connections should be made ​​as they do to get out of TX 5 wires? (1-2 = 12 tourn;
2-3 = 3 tourn; 3-4 = 5 tourn; 4-5 = 12 tourn here is how these are connected to it coming out 5 wires to connect to the base address?

[jocelito]

if you do this pci, check this error

[roccocoin]

Originally Posted by jocelito

if you do this pci, check this error

jocelito tanks, pcb I made this hoping that here there are no errors, you may tell me how to link the various tourn of TX? tanks

[jocelito]

ok

[roccocoin]

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[roccocoin]

jocelito hello, thanks for the replies.
but now I would be interested to know how to connect the tx series in order to make that come out 5 wires to be soldered to the base-mail, because I have 4 coils and the final 8 wires, but need 5 for the electronic breadboard, connect 4 reels have 5 wires end? tanks

[jocelito]

you should make a unique bobiba 32 laps, with 5 outputs.
one at the beginning and then another at 12, 15.20 and another at the end

[jocelito]

ok

[jocelito]

I did this a long time, I have no more
http://verde-3230.blogspot.com.br/

[roccocoin]

Originally Posted by jocelito

I did this a long time, I have no more
http://verde-3230.blogspot.com.br/

jocelito I have to cut this track?







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