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#376
04-02-2013, 11:48 PM
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jajjajajajaj pos compañero se me hace raro que pueda hacer lrl y no sabe como disminuir el tamaño de una foto
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#377
04-03-2013, 12:03 AM
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robalocarapanda, i´´m looking in my pc, for your famous utilityes" option, and no appared , can you help me please, i see my photos and gave click in these and this isnt jaja ;(
robalocarapanda: ando buscando el dichoso utilities y no lo encuentro aguantameeee o guiame, solo sale propiedades y no hay pa bajar la resolucion
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#378
04-03-2013, 12:06 AM
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robalocarpÃ*ndo, yo puedo bajarle resolucion a mis videos, de hecho,lo he hecho, yo puedo bajarle resolucion a mi camara, hasta donde se deje, pero bueno nunca lo habia intentado, ademas nada tiene que ver la informatica con la electronica no se salga, bastante hice con aprender a moverle a esa cosa y traduceles tu que todo lo sabes andale mijo
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#379
04-03-2013, 12:10 AM
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i´m doing my major effort, zoorrillo,s face
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#380
04-03-2013, 12:18 AM
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burro carpacarapanda, no se llama utilities se llama propiedades ya encontre la opcion pero alli no dice a cuanto la quiero bajar, solo que la comprimira veamos, y traduceles todo esto tu que todo sabes hee
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#381
04-03-2013, 01:43 AM
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manda la foto a paint y después en tamaño selecciona y despues cambiar tamaño y activa la casilla de relacion de aspecto para que no te valla a quedar muy angosta o muy gorda es decir si la imagen es de 4x8 le cambias al 2 y automaticamente te la dejara en 2x4 ok
saludos, pecoroy el que este libre de pecado que me escupa la cara y arroje la primera piedra compañero come diablos y caga santos saludos
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#382
04-03-2013, 04:22 AM
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robalocarapanda: mrtech have the video of my test, we should await he post here, in other point here yours no can see spark of 1.20 distance how i prompt, due i lower the power of my bateries in very much tries, and only in these photo i can obtain 70 cms, but in future try i go to put video for yours whit true 120 m. distance, today i am in the process of install the circuit in box, respect to i put pictures, then you no know today where is utilities? and send me to paint for new dificultous by lower the megas? i no like to post little pictures but normal size, say me please then where i can low the resolution, robalo, you no build anything of lrl, only pay by prototipes, why then doing critic? regards
traduction no exact: robalocarapanda: yo ya le envie a mrtech mi video a su correo, esperemos que el lo postee, alli no veran el alcance hasta 1.20 como yo habia dicho, debido a que yo agote mis baterias en pruebas y solo alcance en ese video unos 70 cms y ven resultados alli en choque de tensiones que produce micro chispas al unir dos metales, yo ahora no puedo tomar otro video ya que estoy metiendo el circuito a sus compartimientos, una cosa te digo robalito yo no voy a vender mis prototipos, y aclarame pues como puedo bajar la resolucion de mis fotos para poder postearlas, ahora me mandas a paint, yo no quiero mandar mini fotos disminuidas yo quiero bajarles la resolucion me lo debes viejo dime donde esta el dichoso utilities  saludos
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#383
04-03-2013, 04:38 AM
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Video DETECTOMAN
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#384
04-03-2013, 05:13 AM
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HABER MI PECORO por que no me puedes compartir un modelo que si sirva para detectar oro cual es el problema , por que ese sentimiento de posesión de no compartir mexico es tan grande que dudo que nos encontremos peleando por una marca en el campo compañero regaleme o vendame uno de sus inventos compañero, yo soy un caballero que si puedo compartir lo que me encuentre palabra de honor.
ahi le va en paint puedes hacer el tamaño que tu quieras chiquitito ,chiquito,chico,mediano, grande y normal como ud quiera le mando el tutorial paso por paso me dice si le sirve NO LO PUEDO MANDAR EL TAMAÑO PERMITIDO DEL FORO ES DE 2MB Y MI ARCHIVO EXPLICADO PASO POR ASO ES DE 7 MANDMAE TU CORREO ELECTRONICO EL MIO ES hugodive@hotmail.com Quote:
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#385
04-03-2013, 05:39 AM
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robalocarpanda ya se acabaron los tarugos, desde que morgan compartio el circuito de su pistol detector y muchos lo comercializaron hicieron pdetectors modificadas con marca registrada y toda la cosa y luego lo ignoraron a el, ya no lo pelaron, te suena esto? krypton y evrentis? y otros mas,no voy a vender ningun lrl especial, ese dinero de posibles ventas mejor lo saco buscando yo mismo con el lrl de deteccion de solo oro, si es que se pudira hacer jaja, no sueñes comprador tu no eres electronico, no me digas que no se armar alguna cosa
traduceles eso
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#386
04-03-2013, 05:52 AM
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here in my last viseo posted by drtech, the 1.5 bateria was exaust, due the continuos test ofthese dayin these video the batery heat frosen my fingers and i no can most sustent
alli en mi ultimo video posteado por drtech, la bateria estaba extinguida debido a mis continuos tests ese dia, y no detecto el 120 m inicial, me quemaba los dedos y no podia mas sostenerla, alli estan las pruebas robalocarpanda de que yo hago lrls, alguna duda? si quieres te paso el video despues cuando ya la tenga armada ahorita esta en proceso y no esta todo conectado
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#387
04-03-2013, 06:06 AM
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te comento compañero pecoro que yo soy un caballero tengo equipos de alonzo de morgan de andreas y te los puedo enseñar todos estan tal y como me los vendieron no me interesa saber como funcionan , no me interesa copiarlos ni venderlos mi pasion es la búsqueda y busco un equipo que consiga hacer hoy en dia como en el 2008 una deteccion limpia y sin fallas si gustas te puedo enviar fotos de los equipos los que estan sellados siguen sellados y los que tienen poliuretano siguen teniendo el poliuretano, por lo mismo que no soy electronico no me interesa saber el como solo quiero una maquina que funcione.
asi que que onda vendeme uno  y mandame tu correo para mandarte el tutorial que me hizo mi hja para ti
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#388
04-03-2013, 06:33 AM
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very much thanks mr drtech by posted my video i send you an embraceee
i like send to you other videos may be
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#389
04-03-2013, 06:39 AM
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i not build my lrl for sale, my religion no permit this, i make lrls only
for hobbie i m entusiast ofelectronic, i see yours videos in youtube, whit krypton de andreas and proof other ionic of sudamerica these lrl are sufficient for you
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#390
04-03-2013, 06:52 AM
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robalocarapanda, thanks for the offer of tutorial, but i can drive succes in paint, i go to dowload in internet any program for pictures compressing, i send an embarce to your family, aware may be other videos of me, thanks
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#391
04-03-2013, 03:47 PM
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EStimado
Me gustarÃ*a saber si recibio mi mensaje personal Atte. Nelson Dear frind I need to know if you recibed my private message Regards Nelson Quote:
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#392
04-03-2013, 07:35 PM
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hugg, we need here an spanish lrl section, hello nelson yes i read your private message then i send the tuesday to you a mail, may be these letter should arrive to you mail spam
hay.. nosotros deberiamos tener aqui una seccion de los lrl en español, cuesta contestar en ingles, oye nelson mira, si leei tu mensaje y yo te conteste a tu correo hace dos dias, veo que no te llego o se fue a correo no deseado, yo te conteste desde hotmail, quizas ya no salen contestaciones hacia gmail.com ya que en mi correo se instalo automaticamente un nuevo formato de autolook´´ y fue quitado el live mail´´ si quieres dame otro correo de hotmail.com y te lo vuelvo a pegar, lo saco de borradores, saludos
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#393
06-02-2013, 05:43 PM
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My second pdk version is getting 1.5 volts spark at 1 meter and my tv set at 3 even 5 meter with strong signal.
Here is my video for those who want more probes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3J194...ature=youtu.be Regards Nelson Quote:
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#394
06-02-2013, 11:00 PM
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Probably PDK does the job under certain conditions.
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#395
06-03-2013, 09:41 PM
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Good results.  Finally your perseverance worked and could get your gift. But me no, after I disappointed from good results and no help to improve, Left it. Now ask you: do you like to give details to one from other point of world how to construct it or no similar to other people like LRLMAN disregard?
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#396
06-23-2013, 06:27 PM
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what about FIELD TEST RESULTS of this PDK you have built and the KRYPTON you bought from Andreas ? any news ? Regards
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#397
06-24-2013, 03:02 PM
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Thanks Michael
I just send you private emails and has i toll i m very busy these days, but work will continue. Now is time to get the correct frequency work Best regards Nelson Quote:
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#398
06-24-2013, 03:33 PM
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Hi Morgan
Well about field test i m hungry to get on the field but rain and work don´t allow me to go outside jet. PDK shows good sensitivity, but Crypton is stronger and accurate machine. This doesn´t means that PDK can´t get a target, because Crypton will get it at more distance and with more precision. For example, PDK gets signals from sides of the loop, Crypton does not. It get signals from one point. My first pdk was tested at 67 Khz and now at 60 Khz For 14" TV the screen the signal was detected has show on the video at 5 meters or more. Then when i change the frequency to 60Khz th signal was detected only at 2 meters, but i found also that pdk got more signals and stronger. So the question is, what is the correct frequency for gold or silver? Last weak my city sufer a backout for about 45 minutes, so having the oportunity to work both machines without the electric filed from power lines i was still picking up strong signals from Crypton and also small signals from PDK. This signals were not the same assuming is because they work at diferent frequencies. So know i m very convince that getting the correct frequency for buried gold and silver is one of the clues to get succes. Also i m now searching for some information about frequency drift, thinking that it depends on how many years a metal is buried, it can change the emiting or resonant frequency. Diferent kind of soils can make metal resonate at diferent frequencies. So may be when we said that a PDK or any LRL works diferent on some countries is because the kaind of soil and also the kind of weather that can influence the frequency too. Morgan, if you got succes with your pdk, is because you work on it and also you have one mayor advance point that you have a field test with buriend metals. So i think know you must work around your field test if it has modify by humidity, weather or any other thing that can modify your RX frequency. Finally i can said that Crypton is far more sensitive and accurate on pinpointing the target. Also it has the posibility to retune acording your country conditions. My silver coins were buried last March with salt, so i must wait at least a year or more to see if i can get any signals. However, i think we are close to get a working LRL and i invite members of the forum to keep working, but this time lets center on frequency and if we realy can experiment frequency drifts with diferent kind of soils and weather conditions. I dont think VHF waves has something to do with PDK, because having strong electromagnetics fiels around your search site, will only cover small signals that comes from metals. Regards Nelson Quote:
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#399
06-24-2013, 04:36 PM
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Hi
Please take a look to this article about halo effect http://www.njminerals.org/metaldetec...aloeffect.html Chris's Metal Detecting Page: The Halo Effect njminerals.org is mainly about [what else?] mineral collecting, but metal detecting is at least somewhat related.... so here we go. All articles and images are subject to copyright. They may not be copied or distributed in any way without prior written permission. I. The Trouble With Test Gardens The fresh-burial test for coins has led many a detector owner to conclude his new machine is "no good". That's because this test is nothing more than a worsened version of the Air Test. You bury a coin six inches deep... and ten minutes later, you see if your machine can detect it. Perhaps you get no signal whatsoever. Maybe you even start to become discouraged, thinking you bought a lemon. This is like doing an air test, where the air is made of soil. It fails to take into account an extremely important factor, which we'll discuss shortly. II. The Controversy Some topics engender controversy way out of proportion to their importance in the world. This is one such topic. There are actually people on detecting forums who have stopped talking to each other entirely, all thanks to this itty bitty subject that revolves around whether or not a buried coin produces an ion halo. It's not because the debates were especially animated, either. I'm just going to try to present scientific principle and fact here. Take it or leave it. Really, this article is not meant to stoke the fires of debate; it's for the newbie who just bought a detector and thinks it's no good because it can't seem to find a quarter that was just buried in the front yard. Some people believe the "halo effect" theory has been disproven. However, I have yet to see a peer-reviewed scientific journal article that even comes close to doing this. In fact, everything I have seen points the other way. I'm talking about scientific principles here, not opinion. Many people understand that iron objects form a halo, but they go so far as to claim that copper and silver objects cannot form halos. This claim is not at all true. The timetable required isn't even all that long; certainly it's less than a hundred years, unless you live in the Atacama Desert. It is understandable, of course, since silver and copper have traditionally been thought of as "noble" metals. They're just not as noble as platinum, palladium, or gold. In chemistry, the term "noble" is roughly synonymous with "non-reactive" or at least "not very reactive". The term is used in conjunction with metals, and gases. Xenon is a noble gas, for example, while palladium is a noble metal (though not one of the three traditional ones of antiquity).  Does silver ionize in the ground? Nahhh.... ;-) This 1918 Merc was found in the woods, a few inches deep. Pine needles and oak leaves covered the forest floor. Organic acids, anyone? It's pretty clear there was sulfur at work here, too. Silver will give an "ion halo" wherever groundwater or moisture can work on it for decades, especially if that water is even slightly acidic (which it nearly always is). When the black coating was removed electrolytically, it revealed only minor pitting of the surface. Surprise! Have you ever dug up an old copper coin and found that it was green with corrosion? What do you think that means? How about a 90-year-old silver coin that emerged from the soil all blackened with tarnish? Instead, perhaps, it emerged with just little traces of black, brown, or even other colors. That's OK, too. There doesn't have to be noticeable blackening to mean that ions have formed. Silver sulfide is not the only possible compound that can form. Some of the compounds are at least partly water-soluble and can leach out a couple inches into the surrounding soil. Furthermore, it doesn't take much ionization to make the surrounding area conductive. Recall also that some water-insoluble compounds can become appreciably soluble when that water is slightly acidic (e.g., because of some H2S, H2SO3, HNO2, tannic acid, etc.) In the ground, ions are mobilized from the surface of a coin by soil acids and dissolved salts. Rain picks up atmospheric NO2 and especially SO2, as well as tannic acid (etc) leached from pine needles, oak leaves, and other materials on the surface. There is also decaying pyrite in many soils; this yields H2SO3, H2S, etc. Pyrite is one of the commonest minerals there is; it can be present in all rock environments, from igneous to sedimentary. Anyway, so you buried a coin 6 inches deep yesterday. Maybe you can't detect it. If you come back in a year, or perhaps five years, this could change. It will not change in just a few days (or weeks), unless the object is made out of something reactive like magnesium or zinc. With a very slow-reacting metal such as silver, you really ought to come back in thirty or forty years to notice a difference. Or, if you want to do a useful experiment, you could come back every week and see how long it takes for your favorite detector(s) to get a faint signal over the coin. Perhaps someone could speed the process by burying silver coins with egg yolks, and copper coins with vinegar. I've been wondering how 5% HNO3 would work here, instead. Since salt water is notorious for promoting corrosion (i.e., promoting ionization of metal), it might work instead of acids. You might be able to get a good test garden without waiting years. III. What About Gold? Gold jewelry and coins are not pure gold, unless they are made of 24kt gold. In the USA, most gold jewelry is only 14kt. It is uncommon to go as high as 18kt, but even that is not pure. Thus, gold items are actually made of gold alloys. American coin gold was 90% gold, 10% copper. Once again: alloys, not pure gold. There are indeed some alloys that are famously good at resisting corrosion. In practical terms, these alloys resist leaching of their component metals. Two of the best-known alloys of this type are stainless steel and phosphor bronze. Even these can give up ions under the right conditions. However, many (if not most) common alloys do not resist leaching very much, if at all. It is a common myth that an alloy's most-noble metal will always protect its baser metals. It really depends on the alloy. Judging from the brass objects I have found, brass corrodes pretty quickly in the soil. Bell metal and bronze, on the other hand, seem more durable. However, they do still have patination... meaning ion formation. Trace impurities in an alloy can also have a remarkable effect either way. You may wonder, what has this to do with gold, or silver? People often believe that gold coins and rings cannot form ionization halos. Gold itself certainly does not form a halo, because Au doesn't appreciably ionize in those conditions; however, let us not forget that gold coins are not 100% pure gold. If there's even a few tenths of a percent worth of baser metals (in reality, it's much more), there is a source of ions that can escape the surface. This halo will probably be slower-forming and smaller in extent than with a silver or copper coin, because there is less metal that can ionize. It can still form. Low-karat gold jewelry (e.g., a 10kt gold ring) is even more prone to this. 10 karats means the object is only 10/24ths pure gold. What did you think the other 14/24ths were made of? That's right, not gold. Not plastic, either. It's metal that can leach out of the alloy as ions, creating a conductive halo... and an electrochemical cell. I once had an old ring sitting on a shelf in the lab. Well, I picked up this ring and was going to throw it away, because I assumed it was brass. It was very dull-looking and even had traces of green on it. I thought I saw "14K" on it, but I went back and looked at it closely. It was, in fact, 10-karat gold. I also recovered another 10kt gold ring from the bottom of a lake with a Tiger Shark. Sure enough, it was pitted and showed corrosion in some spots. Guess what color the corrosion was? Yes, it was green. There was obviously some copper in that alloy. If you've unearthed a 10kt or even 14kt gold item that shows mild corrosion, that's not out of the ordinary, especially if it was in a medium that favored ionization (e.g., at the beach, or in the bottom of a lake). If, on the other hand, you have something marked 24kt that's even a little green around the edges... then suspect fakery. IV. Once Again, the Science Doesn't Lie A metal object need not be visibly pitted in order to have leached ions into the surrounding soil or water. To see this in action, you might take a mildly tarnished penny-- not a valuable one!-- and drop it into a solution of 2-propanol, water, and a little Murphy's Oil Soap. Leave it for three or four days. If you mixed it up right, you will find two things have happened: 1. The solution is full of copper ions, which give it a blue-green color. 2. The copper penny is still not pitted! As said before, even noble-metal alloys can give up ions to their surroundings. If you take the time to read the scientific literature, you will find that corrosion of gold alloys is well known and has been for a very long time. If we know that gold alloys can leach base metal ions (and gold particles, once their matrix is gone...), then it should be a "no-brainer" to understand that silver and copper coins will produce ion halos to an even greater extent. Silver is more reactive than gold; furthermore, silver coins aren't even pure silver anyway. Coin silver is only 90% Ag. Have you ever dug a silver coin that had a little verdigris on it? I have. It gets better, though. A 1964 article by Sveshnikov and Ryss in Volume 1 of Geochemistry International has a nice little diagram which, to the detectorist, might look like the field emitted by a search coil. In fact, it is a diagram of the electromagnetic lines associated with a natural battery. That battery has formed all by itself, around a sulfide ore deposit in the ground. Why is this significant? I thought you'd never ask. Look once again at that silver coin, pictured at the top of this web page. The black tarnish is made primarily of... silver sulfide. A tarnished coin in the ground is actually the center of an electrochemical cell. All you need is a little moisture. The more there is, the better. Metal detector operators have long understood that detection depth improves when the ground is wet. That's because wet ground is not only more conductive, but it also allows ions to move more easily. This movement of ions produces a magnetic field. Microgalvanic cells will form in the vicinity of a buried coin. These will drive metal ions out into the soil through a complex series of processes where the anodic and cathodic regions are not constant. It may come as a surprise that this phenomenon is pretty well-established in geochemistry. While hobbyists might know the term "ion halo", geochemists and geologists call these "dispersion aureoles". While a natural sulfide deposit might have taken a long time to set up a good-sized "earth battery", the alteration zones surrounding the main deposit are commensurately enormous (tens or even hundreds of feet). In the coin situation, we're talking about a much smaller scale with shorter distances. A few decades in the ground seems to do the job just fine, thank you. V. Summary of the Halo Effect The halo effect would be expected to work in one or more of the following ways: 1.) By increasing the size of the conductive area centered on the metal object. Only a small amount of dampness is expected to be necessary for this, but more has a greater effect. When the entire ground becomes conductive (as on a wet salt beach), notice how a typical VLF detector reacts. 2.) By generating an electric field due to a potential difference. This does not require moving current. Regions of potential difference (i.e., voltage) are expected wherever a metal and its alteration products exist together in the soil. Interactions can be complex due to soil chemistry (e.g., charged groups on organic molecules in soil). What's important is that a potential difference gives rise to a DC electric field. The required amount of soil moisture is probably low. 3.) By generating a magnetic field due to the movement of charge. There has to be some dampness for ions to move, though really not that much; consider a so-called "dry cell" battery. More water helps, of course, such as after a couple days of rain. A detector works by inducing a current in a metal object. This induced current causes the object to emit its own magnetic field. This in turn causes a back-induction in the search coil. If the target is already emitting a field of its own, this is going to make it easier to detect. I have found buried plastic pipes with a metal detector, but they always had water moving through them. Moving ions ---> magnetic field. So.... don't fret about your brand-new detector. It wasn't designed to detect coins that you buried five minutes ago beneath six inches of soil. In fact, if your soil is highly mineralized or has teensy bits of metal junk in it, this "soil air-test" can fail with just two or three inches of soil. To the doubters: if you know where there are some old coins that are buried 6 to 12 inches deep, and they've been there at least 40 or 50 years, don't bother metal detecting them. I wouldn't want you to waste your time, because you've already proven that your detector can't find them. Just show me where the site is, and I'll take good care of it for you... hey, you can even lend me your detector for safe-keeping. You can see I put a lot of work into this site to make it informative. If you found this article helpful, please help me out by shopping through the sponsored links. It helps me keep this site running and adding free content! Thanks again for visiting! -CHRIS
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#400
07-12-2013, 02:00 PM
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Any news about PDK performance
Hi
Since PDK was build and tested for some mebers, i will like to know whats going on about this LRL? We saw a few videos that shows pdk performance and today it looks that pdk is not working or there are no more comments to make about it. May be it stop to work. I don´t know if Morgan has something to said about his creation? Do you have something new to share or at least to tell us about your machine? Regards Nelson
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no todo sabemos las maniobras del pc, yo aprendi lirico a computear, ahora voy a buscar donde esta ese dichoso utilidades pa traerte las fotos 
muchas veces yo lo habia dicho y la gente no es muy cooperadora, nadie me dijo nada, casi nadie ayuda 
y ya dejemos el geniecito he no es pa tanto, no era mi intencion no postear tengo muchas otras cosas importantes de trabajo que hacer aburr y traduceles eso tu que saben andale mijo
Linear Mode
